I think that there are advantages and disadvantages to each, and I think I will eventually build the Lynn's jig, but I decided to build the ShopNotes Jig.
Construction:
Construction was straight forward. I used 5/8" instead of plan's 3/4" baltic birch plywood for the jig only because of availability. There is nothing special I needed to do and I followed the authors method for sizing the fence carrier by cutting it long, and then sneaking up on the final fit. The only measurement that was left out of the article (at least I never found it) was the width of the 1/4" fiberboard pin carrier. I settled for a 2 1/2" width. I cut the pin out of oak. I used knobs from WoodWorkers Warehouse and they came in 3/8" size so the mounting holes were drilled at 3/8" and 1/2" instead of the 5/16" and 3/8" called out in the article.
Adjustment:
I made a 3/8" fence. This means a 3/8" pin and a 3/8" dado setup. My Freud dado set up per instructions was just shy of 3/8" so I had to add a couple of shims. The first cuts with the adjustable 3/8" fence aligned flush with the fixed fence resulted in a joint which was too tight, so tight that the joint would not go together at all. Following the instructions, I adjusted the set screw in about 3/4 turn to bring the pin closer to the blade. The next joint was lose, so I backed out the screw about 1/4 turn. The third test was perfect.
Repeatability:
After making one good joint, I decided to test the repeatability of the jig. After all, it's claim to fame is that you can change your fences to the desired finger width, and never have to readjust the jig. So I preceded to completely remove the 3/8" fence. I then put it back on and tightened down the securing knobs. I cut another joint and it was indeed exactly like the first. Well, it worked, the jig is repeatable. Now it's time to make a 1/4" and a 1/2" fence.
Conclusion:
Great jig, very easy to make. I think I'll also make Lynn's jig so that I can have the ability to vary the spacing of the fingers.
Bill Esposito